What is Polysorbate 20?
Chemically, Polysorbate 20 is an emulsifier that helps oil and water mix. A mild solubiliser with no firm comedogenic rating. Flagged in fungal-acne circles because polysorbates can be metabolised by malassezia, though polysorbate 20 is the most debated of the group.
You may see it on labels as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate-20, Tween 20, so it can hide under more than one name in an ingredient list.
Where Polysorbate 20 shows up
Polysorbate 20 is commonly formulated into almost any lotion or cream, where it keeps the oil and water phases blended. Separately from clogging, its irritancy is rated 0/5 — low, so it's unlikely to sting or sensitise on its own.
Is Polysorbate 20 bad for acne-prone skin?
Because no reliable comedogenic score exists for Polysorbate 20, judge it by how your own skin responds rather than by a number.
Worth flagging: Polysorbate 20's rating is disputed. Credible sources land on different numbers, which is why we show a range rather than a single score — and why your own experience is the best tiebreaker.
Note for fungal-acne (malassezia) sufferers: Polysorbate 20 is commonly avoided in fungal-acne routines, since it falls into the fatty-acid or ester families the yeast can feed on. The evidence there is looser than for comedogenicity — see our fungal-acne checker for context.